Smith & Wollensky is a restaurant from The Shining: a terrifying American steak joint by the Thames, four months old, with a £10 million refurbishment and no passing trade; it sits opposite the Georgian houses in John Adam Street, like a cow biting into a wedding cake, wondering what went wrong.
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Smith & Wollensky, Adelphi Building, John Adam Street, London WC2 6HT, tel: 020 7321 6007.
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