I matured on Chateau Tahbilk – as the Central Victorian winery was then, in the late 1980s, known.

As an undergraduate luncheoning in quiet little BYOs in Carlton (with lecturers who should have known better), Tahbilk was the default wine. A marsanne to begin with, some shiraz or cabernet (or both) with Mario’s wife’s lasagna, after which we’d go to Jimmy Watson’s wine bar to forget our own names.