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William Sitwell’s history of eating out reminds us painfully of what we’re missing

9 May 2020

9:00 AM

9 May 2020

9:00 AM

The Restaurant: A History of Eating Out William Sitwell

Simon & Schuster, pp.272, 20

In the concluding chapter of this book the Daily Telegraph’s restaurant critic and recovering vegan-baiter William Sitwell muses on the collapse of Jamie Oliver’s empire last year: ‘His endeavour, passion and hard work wasn’t enough… it was part of a bursting bubble.’ Since then more mid-range chains have announced their imminent demise.

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