A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter, depending on your wish. It is next to the Ivy — now a private members’ club and franchise stretching to the London suburbs bearing small bowls of shepherd’s pie — and it is infinitely preferable.
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Louie, 13-15 West Street, London WC2H 9NE; tel: 0208 057 6500; louie-london.com
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