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Food

A small victory in a bad year: José Pizarro at the RA reviewed

27 November 2021

9:00 AM

27 November 2021

9:00 AM

Piccadilly is losing its patina of dirt, its cadaverous character. It is overpriced and over-renovated,a meeting place for luxury goods. Perhaps I cannot forgive it for not actually containing Dracula’s ‘malodorous’ house; but who has a resentment against a street except this column and Hillary Clinton, who set a terrorist attack here in her new novel State of Terror (written with Louise Penny), which describes her resentment towards Donald Trump through the prism of genre fiction? Piccadilly does, though, now have three excellent restaurants: HIDE; the Wolseley; and José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts, which opened this summer....

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José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts, 6 Burlington Gardens, London, W1S 3ET; tel: 020 7300 5912.

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