Tanya Gold

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

The politics of eating lobster

17 July 2021 9:00 am

Lobsters like to live in gullies on the sea floor, or under sand, and I understand how they feel. But…

An utterly convincing dreamworld: The Ritz reviewed

10 July 2021 9:00 am

The Ritz is still here, and still gaudy. No grand hotel in London feels quite so complete, if pink; as…

Harry Potter meets Ikea: Backlot Cafe reviewed

26 June 2021 9:00 am

Harry Potter is a fictional orphan locked in a cupboard by his aunt and uncle, after which he discovers a…

A careful parody: Noble Rot Soho reviewed

12 June 2021 9:00 am

Noble Rot sits in Greek Street, Soho, on the site of the old Gay Hussar, which squatted here from 1953…

Bird-brained: Brood, by Jackie Polzin, reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

This is not a novel about four chickens of various character — Gloria, Miss Hennepin County, Gam Gam and Darkness…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

My road trip notebook: castles, Charles Darwin and Churchill’s cuddly toys

22 May 2021 9:00 am

Before pandemic I thought I might drive across America, or even France. Now — what about Kent, the garden of…

Pretty food with a side order of pollution: 28-50 reviewed

15 May 2021 9:00 am

You cannot have cars and dining tables in the same dreamscape: it doesn’t work, unless you think carbon monoxide is…

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021 9:00 am

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an…

Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed

17 April 2021 9:00 am

The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is…

Anti-Semitism and the far left

10 April 2021 9:00 am

The comic David Baddiel has written a book which explains that much of the far left hates Jews. There are…

Spring lamb and the bread of affliction: our Zoom seder

3 April 2021 9:00 am

This week my son came home from school and asked me if it was true that the Jews killed Jesus.…

The finest humous in England: Arabica food boxes reviewed

20 March 2021 9:00 am

Restaurant-goers who cannot let go of restaurants — for professional or other reasons — are floating on a sea of…

In defence of Meghan, the demonised duchess

13 March 2021 9:00 am

The unfair demonisation of a duchess

Prince Harry’s brave revelation

8 March 2021 9:28 pm

Monarchy is madness, a national delusion in which adults behave as children and project onto the objects of their desire.…

Cornwall, but not as the locals know it: Stein’s at Home reviewed

6 March 2021 9:00 am

The Stein’s at Home steak menu box (£65) says ‘Love from Cornwall’: it is not for people who live in…

Feasting on memories of Venice

20 February 2021 9:00 am

Dining in catastrophe used to be more interesting: but we must be fair. It was a smaller (and wetter) catastrophe:…

Dull food for dull times: the Morrisons family food box reviewed

6 February 2021 9:00 am

The Compass Group boast of serving 5.5 billion meals a year, so you might think they would be good at…

Piccadilly Circus, delivered: the Wolseley’s home dining reviewed

23 January 2021 9:00 am

The Corbin & King dining and home entertaining box includes dishes from the Delaunay, the Wolseley and Brasserie Zédel ‘delivered…

Sub-ready-meals of salt and tears: Simply Cook reviewed

9 January 2021 9:00 am

Welcome to the sunlit uplands which, for me, contain small plastic tubs of stock, which is just the opening to…

Food to absorb alcohol: Christmas hampers reviewed

19 December 2020 9:00 am

There is straw inside the Fortnum & Mason Christmas Treat Hamper (£100). As the straw drifts through the house, it…

The only man who didn’t want to be Cary Grant was Cary Grant himself

19 December 2020 9:00 am

Cary Grant was a hoax so sublime his creator struggled to escape him. He was a metaphor, too, for the…

‘The internet raised me’: the strange world of online star Belle Delphine

12 December 2020 9:00 am

Meet Belle Delphine, the pink-haired online sensation

A magical field hospital for vegetables: Turnips reviewed

5 December 2020 9:00 am

Turnips is an haute cuisine restaurant inside a greengrocer in Borough Market in London. I suspect others will try this…