Tanya Gold

Disney matter

2 October 2014 1:00 pm

The Disney Café is a gaudy hell on the fourth floor of Harrods, Knightsbridge. It is adjacent to the Harrods…

My little plutocrat

18 September 2014 1:00 pm

Rextail is a restaurant for billionaire children, such as Richie Rich. Its owner, Arcady Novikov, has already opened a restaurant…

Vienna without the Austrians

4 September 2014 1:00 pm

Fischer’s is Austria made safe for liberals, gays, Jews and other Untermenschen riffraff, because it is a restaurant, not a…

Escaping the Fringe

21 August 2014 1:00 pm

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the city is full of glassy-eyed narcissists eating haggis pizza off flyers that say Michael Gove:…

Rebooting the Snail

7 August 2014 1:00 pm

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French…

Stable conditions

24 July 2014 1:00 pm

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in…

Simple pleasures in Soho

10 July 2014 1:00 pm

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is…

Dinner with the paparazzi

26 June 2014 1:00 pm

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is…

The pall of the wild

12 June 2014 1:00 pm

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been…

Old Harry’s game

29 May 2014 1:00 pm

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

End of the rude

15 May 2014 1:00 pm

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…

Oxford blues

1 May 2014 1:00 pm

It is now two decades since I lived in Oxford. I was then a drunk and lonely puddle of a…

Relaxing with Marcus

16 April 2014 1:00 pm

In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who…

A far cry from Chelsea

3 April 2014 2:00 pm

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or…

Lamb rump without the prince

20 March 2014 3:00 pm

Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a…

Dinner with the editors

6 March 2014 3:00 pm

Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer…

Multi-story dining

20 February 2014 3:00 pm

The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below…

London for aliens

6 February 2014 3:00 pm

Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths…

Dining with relics

23 January 2014 3:00 pm

Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is…

Meet the parents

9 January 2014 3:00 pm

Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in…

Winter horrorland

12 December 2013 3:00 pm

Winter Wonderland is a Christmas-themed playground that lands on the sorry part of Hyde Park in November; the part that…

The restaurant lobby

28 November 2013 3:00 pm

One Canada Square was the original glass house in east London’s Gotham City, a thrilling tower with a flashing pyramid…

French revival

14 November 2013 3:00 pm

Boulestin is a pretty restaurant on St James’s Street, between the posh fag shop (Davidoff) and the old palace, which…

Heston’s brown Dinner

31 October 2013 3:00 pm

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a brown cavern in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Knightsbridge, has won a second Michelin star. These…

Towards the end of Gordon

17 October 2013 2:00 pm

The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost…