Food

The linguistic ingredients of ‘salmagundi’

23 April 2022 9:00 am

‘It makes me hungry,’ said my husband when I mentioned the word salmagundi. That is his reaction to many words.…

The Harrods disadvantage: Em Sherif reviewed

23 April 2022 9:00 am

I am never bored with Harrods, only disgusted, and it is disgust of the most animated and exciting kind. It…

My Easter recipe: Greek-style marinated lamb

16 April 2022 9:00 am

Greek-style marinated lamb, Greek salad and tzatziki

Which foods are seeing the biggest price rises?

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Palm substitutes Palm Sunday was so-called because of the palm fronds thrown before Jesus on his entry into Jerusalem. But…

£120 steak that looks like a M&S meal deal: The Maine reviewed

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Last week Chris Corbin and Jeremy King lost controlof the restaurant group they founded: Corbin & King, which made theWolseley,…

My £50-a-week chocolate habit

2 April 2022 9:00 am

As I’ve got older my tastes have generally become less refined. During my youth I dutifully slogged through Kafka, Camus…

The best lamb in London: Blacklock reviewed

26 March 2022 9:00 am

Blacklock is the fourth restaurant of that name – there are others in Soho, Shoreditch and the City of London.…

Food ruined by an existential crisis: Fallow reviewed

12 March 2022 9:00 am

I was going to be jolly this week, for variety and denial, but I changed my mind. Instead, I wonder…

Are you man enough to eat raw offal?

12 March 2022 9:00 am

Real men eat raw offal

A victim of its own mythology: Langan’s Brasserie reviewed

26 February 2022 9:00 am

Langan’s, a brasserie off Piccadilly with curling orange neon signage calling its name, is under new management after it fell…

Why restaurant food at home beats eating out

19 February 2022 9:00 am

‘The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be…

Pass on Piggy’s, head to Hide: central London breakfasts reviewed

12 February 2022 9:00 am

The centre could not hold, at least for Piggy’s. The drama of being the only greasy spoon in the West…

Who survived the sinking of the Titanic?

29 January 2022 9:00 am

Prime numbers As of 29 January Boris Johnson will have been Prime Minister for two years and 190 days. Currently…

A ghost at the feast: The LaLee at the Cadogan hotel, reviewed

29 January 2022 9:00 am

The Cadogan hotel, Chelsea, is where Oscar Wilde was arrested for sodomy and gross indecency in 1895, in Room 118,…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

The torment of a tasting menu: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught reviewed

18 December 2021 9:00 am

The Connaught Hotel’s formal dining room was always, to me, a place of childish myth; more comforting for being mythical.…

Gastro-nomics: a foodie’s guide to a changing world

18 December 2021 9:00 am

Twice recently I’ve been asked my opinion of ‘Doughnut Economics’. The first time, I was tempted to cover my ignorance…

Just another mad night out at the local bad-food gastropub

13 November 2021 9:00 am

We were enjoying our evening at the overpriced gastropub until a woman in a dark uniform appeared at our table.…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

Would you go to a naked dining club?

23 October 2021 9:00 am

My evening at a naked dining club

Letters: How to feed the world

23 October 2021 9:00 am

Doom and gloom Sir: The depressing article by Tom Woodman (‘You must be kidding’, 16 October) confirms my growing fears…

Why I retrained as a butcher

9 October 2021 9:00 am

Why I retrained as a butcher

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

What does Peter Quennell have to do with fish?

11 September 2021 9:00 am

When Peter Quennell was sent down from Oxford for consorting with a woman called Cara (by Evelyn Waugh’s account), he…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…