London

The Harrods disadvantage: Em Sherif reviewed

23 April 2022 9:00 am

I am never bored with Harrods, only disgusted, and it is disgust of the most animated and exciting kind. It…

£120 steak that looks like a M&S meal deal: The Maine reviewed

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Last week Chris Corbin and Jeremy King lost controlof the restaurant group they founded: Corbin & King, which made theWolseley,…

Covid has changed London for the better

2 April 2022 9:00 am

Covid has changed London for the better

The best lamb in London: Blacklock reviewed

26 March 2022 9:00 am

Blacklock is the fourth restaurant of that name – there are others in Soho, Shoreditch and the City of London.…

Britain’s money laundering scandal goes back a long way

26 March 2022 9:00 am

The war in Ukraine has turned a lot of people’s attention to oligarchs in the UK. How did these guys…

Food ruined by an existential crisis: Fallow reviewed

12 March 2022 9:00 am

I was going to be jolly this week, for variety and denial, but I changed my mind. Instead, I wonder…

I’ve found a little Eden in London

5 March 2022 9:00 am

I’m not one of life’s early risers but an exception had to be made on Wednesday last week. In an…

A victim of its own mythology: Langan’s Brasserie reviewed

26 February 2022 9:00 am

Langan’s, a brasserie off Piccadilly with curling orange neon signage calling its name, is under new management after it fell…

Pass on Piggy’s, head to Hide: central London breakfasts reviewed

12 February 2022 9:00 am

The centre could not hold, at least for Piggy’s. The drama of being the only greasy spoon in the West…

A modern Medea: Iron Curtain, by Vesna Goldsworthy, reviewed

5 February 2022 9:00 am

Vesna Goldsworthy’s finely wrought third novel explodes into life early on with a shocking scene in which Misha — the…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

Who is – and isn't – welcome in Sadiq Khan's London?

22 November 2021 8:49 pm

Right-wing Frenchman Eric Zemmour, who is expected to run for the presidency of his country next year, has been designated persona…

Lord Lucan, Joan Collins and the greatest dinner ever

6 November 2021 9:00 am

There’s a narrow stretch of Chelsea, south of the King’s Road from Oakley Street to Ormonde Gate, that reminds me…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

Harriet Harman calls for Cressida Dick to resign

1 October 2021 8:53 pm

Labour’s Harriet Harman has called for Cressida Dick to resign as chief of the Metropolitan Police after Wayne Couzens was…

I was the next Truman Capote

25 September 2021 9:00 am

It’s nice to be back in London, and Glebe Place is a delight. Mind you, it’s not the mansion I…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

At last, a dose of up-close culture in London

4 September 2021 9:00 am

In London for the first time in 18 months, I was as excited as a child on a birthday outing.…

The watery life of the capital

4 September 2021 9:00 am

To write about London and its rivers is to enter a crowded literary field. Many aspects of watery life in…

France's provocateur is coming to London

3 September 2021 7:34 am

Five years ago, London’s affluent French poured their dosh into the campaign of Emmanuel Macron. This time around, supporters of…

The Liberal Democrats have a dangerous vision for the City of London

31 August 2021 5:53 am

Liberals have always set great store by laws and declarations. It was joked about Lord Loreburn, the liberal Lord Chancellor…

A glimpse of lost London – before the yuppie invasion

28 August 2021 9:00 am

In a 1923 book called Echo de Paris, the writer Laurence Houseman attempted to conjure up in a very slim,…

How two literary magazines boosted morale during the Blitz

31 July 2021 9:00 am

William Loxley’s lively account of ‘Bloomsbury, the Blitz and Horizon magazine’ begins with W.H. Auden and Christopher Isherwood emigrating to…

The clever radical who led the City’s transformation

24 July 2021 9:00 am

It’s a vivid example of unintended consequences that the swimming-pool builders of southern England should owe so much to Sir…