Restaurants

Pub food, Disney-style: the George reviewed

2 July 2022 9:00 am

The George, Fitzrovia, was Saki’s local, and a pub for men talking about cars when Great Portland Street was called…

Where to take Jubilee tea: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

4 June 2022 9:00 am

I went to a garden party at Buckingham Palace once. It is coloured in my memory like childhood. There are…

I’m being priced out of eating out

28 May 2022 9:00 am

Restaurant prices are no longer worth it

The perfect restaurant for the Labour party: Arcade reviewed

21 May 2022 9:00 am

I should know better than to visit restaurants assembled as if from disparate bricks, like thrift-shop Duplo: but the ever-credulous…

The Harrods disadvantage: Em Sherif reviewed

23 April 2022 9:00 am

I am never bored with Harrods, only disgusted, and it is disgust of the most animated and exciting kind. It…

£120 steak that looks like a M&S meal deal: The Maine reviewed

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Last week Chris Corbin and Jeremy King lost controlof the restaurant group they founded: Corbin & King, which made theWolseley,…

Why Channel 4 shouldn’t be privatised

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Enough of stagflation forecasts, each more frightening than the last. Enough – for now – of energy policy sermons, as…

The best lamb in London: Blacklock reviewed

26 March 2022 9:00 am

Blacklock is the fourth restaurant of that name – there are others in Soho, Shoreditch and the City of London.…

Food ruined by an existential crisis: Fallow reviewed

12 March 2022 9:00 am

I was going to be jolly this week, for variety and denial, but I changed my mind. Instead, I wonder…

A victim of its own mythology: Langan’s Brasserie reviewed

26 February 2022 9:00 am

Langan’s, a brasserie off Piccadilly with curling orange neon signage calling its name, is under new management after it fell…

Why restaurant food at home beats eating out

19 February 2022 9:00 am

‘The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

Gastro-nomics: a foodie’s guide to a changing world

18 December 2021 9:00 am

Twice recently I’ve been asked my opinion of ‘Doughnut Economics’. The first time, I was tempted to cover my ignorance…

Dancing on Terence Conran’s grave

18 December 2021 9:00 am

‘Who,’ asks Stephen Bayley, in one of the ‘S.B’ chapters of this irresistibly spiky co-written book, ‘could countenance working for…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

Has Covid killed criticism?

9 October 2021 9:00 am

A world without criticism is just advertising

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

Is it time for a Dad’s Army of lorry drivers?

7 August 2021 9:00 am

Here’s a patriotic proposal: let’s form a Dad’s Army of lorry drivers, of which the Road Haulage Association reckons there’s…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

Cake expectations: afternoon tea has gone OTT

3 July 2021 9:00 am

Afternoon tea has gone OTT

How many people are self-isolating when they’re told to?

3 July 2021 9:00 am

Isolated cases Large numbers of people are still being ordered to self-isolate in spite of having been vaccinated — 137,560…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

Pretty food with a side order of pollution: 28-50 reviewed

15 May 2021 9:00 am

You cannot have cars and dining tables in the same dreamscape: it doesn’t work, unless you think carbon monoxide is…

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021 9:00 am

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an…

Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed

17 April 2021 9:00 am

The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is…