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Food

Gordon Ramsay's violently unsexy new restaurant shows he's near the end

Union Street Cafe isn't a bit like Manhattan — it's more like Penge

19 October 2013

9:00 AM

19 October 2013

9:00 AM

The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost charismatically dingy, a land of despairing streets and brick arches and railway tracks heading suicidally for southern suburbs. Even the churches (small, brown, bricked, almost bricked-up) look apologetic, as if they know they have failed.

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Union Street Café, 47–51 Great Suffolk Street, London SE1 0BS, tel: 020 7592 7977.

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