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Food

Dean Street Townhouse – at last! Somewhere I'd pay to eat

Nothing is pretending to be anything else, and the stars are agreeably low-wattage

12 July 2014

9:00 AM

12 July 2014

9:00 AM

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is the Dean Street Townhouse. It is a terrible name, because all houses in Dean Street, a fusty artery of Soho, are town houses; they are not Wendy houses or country houses or dolls’ houses.

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Dean Street Townhouse, Dean Street, London W1D 3SE; tel: 020 7434 1776.

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