As a permanent reminder of the fragility of democracy when put under the combined pressure of economic crisis and populist demagogery, Munich’s significance goes far beyond the headlines of Hitler, Neville Chamberlain, beer and more beer, polluting car-makers, the Bavarian State Opera, hijabs, beggars, tattoos and heavy stodge food. Hitler’s aura is pervasive in the city where his political ambitions were honed; it was in Munich that the Austrian corporal turned journeyman painter who crossed the border into Bavaria, began the madness of the Third Reich.