Pity the gilded restaurants of Mayfair, if you can: they are dying. Some have reopened; they ache on like men with no legs but a glut of polenta. Occasionally, a brave one will open for customers who simply do not exist and so hangs about like a character in a Vladimir Nabokov novel: interesting but superfluous.
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Giannino Mayfair, 10 Blenheim Street, London W1S 1LJ, tel: 020 8138 1196.
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