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Food

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021

9:00 AM

1 May 2021

9:00 AM

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an immense Art Deco restaurant spilling on to an empty platform at the station. When restaurants opened their patios and gardens, I fretted that they would be too busy to be enjoyed: a diner would cling to a square of Astroturf, fearing to sink.

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