The centre could not hold, at least for Piggy’s. The drama of being the only greasy spoon in the West End — in Air Street, of all places — was too much, and it swelled, panicked, and fell apart. Yesterday I ate a mean sliver of almost cold bacon inside hard white supermarket bread.
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Piggy’s, 1 Air St, London W1; tel: 020 7734 0821; 3 Henrietta St, London WC2, tel: 020 3325 5275; Hide, 85 Piccadilly, London W1, tel: 020 3146 8666.
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