Bardo St James’s Restaurant – a name which reads like a map – is a vast new Italian restaurant in one of the pale imperial palaces off Trafalgar Square, near Pall Mall and The Phantom of the Opera, which goes on because snobbery and sado-masochism are among the many things that never die.
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Bardo St James’s, 4 Suffolk Place, London SW1Y 4HX; 020 3828 2487.
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