When livestock farming became unfashionable and it was said palm oil was unsustainable, soybeans stepped up to become the darlings of the alternate food world.

Soy was the key to life without meat – vegetarians and vegans declared. Tofu was delicious in spite of having no taste, others said. As for soy milk, the hordes of hipsters and blue and green-haired eco-activists in love with their ‘chai-soy lattes’ ensured no coffee shop could fail to offer it.