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Food

‘Well-priced and skilful’: Masala Zone, reviewed

14 October 2023

9:00 AM

14 October 2023

9:00 AM

There are cursed restaurants and cursed women, and this makes them no less interesting. One is Maxim’s in Paris, which knows it – it gaily sells ties in a charnel house decorated for the Masque of the Red Death – and another is the Criterion at Piccadilly Circus, which doesn’t.

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