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Food

‘The chocolate soufflé is too good for people’: Pavyllon at the Four Seasons Hotel, reviewed

16 December 2023

9:00 AM

16 December 2023

9:00 AM

One in, one out, as Rick says in Casablanca. Le Gavroche, which was the first restaurant in Britain to win three Michelin stars – and this was before Michelin stars indicated poor mental health in gifted chefs – closes in January, which is serious news in the land of London restaurants: a kind of Congress of Vienna with Michel Roux bowing out with the blood of infinite chickens on his knife.

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