Salt-beef delirium
Katz’s Delicatessen, established 1888, is a theme park of Jewish-American food, with tribute gift shop, on the lower east side…
Cold foam and spindly legs
Bibendum is a hushed restaurant on the first floor of the Michelin House on the Fulham Road. (Bibendum is the…
Not my bag
Hip Chips is a specialist crisp restaurant in Old Compton Street, Soho; no, it is stupider than that. It is…
Vaulting ambition
To the Ned, as diarists say when they can’t provide a rational reason for their voyage: the colossal banking hall…
Food
Pollen Street Social lives in a Georgian house on Pollen Street, Mayfair, a narrow curve between Hanover Street and Maddox…
Character floors
Six Storeys on Soho is in a slender grey townhouse on Soho Square: a bar, restaurant and club. It is…
Fowl play
Cafe Football is in the Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, a shopping centre with a faulty name. It…
Acting up
Gemma Arterton’s new film, Their Finest, is about second world war propaganda. Her character, who is bookish and sensitive, is…
Jamie’s latest plank
Barbecoa is Jamie Oliver’s new restaurant on Piccadilly, and no matter how many times I mutter the name, I do…
Trump, the emptiest mind
Howard Jacobson awoke to the news of Trump’s victory in November. He had no newspaper column so, what could he…
Eat at Joe’s
It is rare for me to write a love letter to a London restaurant, but Joe Allen, which is 40…
Norse code
Aquavit is a ‘uniquely Nordic–style’ restaurant in the St James’s Market development between Regent Street and the Haymarket. This development…
Rich desserts
Ferdi is a café in Shepherd Market; I write about it only to comfort you, because you are not rich,…
Rich desserts
Ferdi is a café in Shepherd Market; I write about it only to comfort you, because you are not rich,…
American English
Ralph’s Coffee & Bar is in the Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Regent Street. It is rare that fashion…
American English
Ralph’s Coffee & Bar is in the Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Regent Street. It is rare that fashion…
Vanity project
The Waverly Inn is the house restaurant of Vanity Fair magazine in New York City. It is part-owned by Graydon…
Vanity project
The Waverly Inn is the house restaurant of Vanity Fair magazine in New York City. It is part-owned by Graydon…
Trumped!
Trump Tower sits between Gucci and Tiffany on Fifth Avenue in New York City. It looks like infant Lego, the…
Trumped!
Trump Tower sits between Gucci and Tiffany on Fifth Avenue in New York City. It looks like infant Lego, the…
Dumb and dumber
Katie Hopkins did something dreadful this week, which is not unusual, because she craves such things. She retweeted praise —…
Garden variety
Margot is an Italian restaurant on Great Queen Street in the still interesting part of Covent Garden. The uninteresting part…
Garden variety
Margot is an Italian restaurant on Great Queen Street in the still interesting part of Covent Garden. The uninteresting part…
Wiltons wonderland
I have agonised over this Christmas review. I ate the Christmas lunch at Harveys Nichols 5th Floor Restaurant, Knightsbridge, next…
Wiltons wonderland
I have agonised over this Christmas review. I ate the Christmas lunch at Harveys Nichols 5th Floor Restaurant, Knightsbridge, next…
