Restaurants

In silent misremembrance

14 September 2017 1:00 pm

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

Tapas but no phantom

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

Dear Mary: What can you do when your new neighbours stiff you on a restaurant bill?

4 June 2016 9:00 am

Q. We moved recently and new neighbours invited us to join them for dinner at a nearby restaurant. I planned…

The RA’s new restaurant prioritises its art over its customers

28 May 2016 9:00 am

The Keeper’s House sits in the basement of Burlington House, a restaurant in disguise. It is quite different from the…

Word of the week: 'concept'

28 May 2016 9:00 am

‘It was nothing special, but it was a pub,’ said my husband, looking up from his copy of Bar magazine…

Nicholas Soames’s Twitter account is a miracle (and so is his diet)

21 May 2016 9:00 am

Miracles are not ceased. A few years ago, a kindly educational therapist took pity on John Prescott and set out…

The horrors of Soho House’s country outpost

14 May 2016 9:00 am

It is summer and the listless metropolitan thinks of grass. It cannot afford to stay at Durslade Farmhouse, Somerset, a…

Meet London’s senior mayor (no, it’s not Sadiq)

7 May 2016 9:00 am

London’s other mayor How many people could name the capital’s other mayor, the Lord Mayor of London? The office, officially…

The most beautiful restaurant in London – from the outside

30 April 2016 9:00 am

Batman owned the Criterion in The Dark Knight, but could he do anything about British Telecom? Savini at Criterion, an…

Would you like to buy an American’s vote?

26 March 2016 9:00 am

Killing time in a Heathrow first-class lounge, I notice how many men adopt an unmistakable ‘first-class lounge’ persona. They stand…

The new Wheeler’s is the worst thing Marco Pierre White has ever done

19 March 2016 9:00 am

Wheeler’s is such a dreadful restaurant that I wonder if Marco Pierre White even knows his name is on it.…

Pharmacy 2 makes me like Damien Hirst

5 March 2016 9:00 am

Pharmacy 2 is the reanimated child of Damien Hirst; it lives inside the Newport Street Gallery in a forsaken patch of…

Sartoria: the home of Savile Row’s men who lunch

20 February 2016 9:00 am

Sartoria is a pale grey restaurant on Savile Row. As evidence that this is London’s destination street — if menswear…

Le Caprice is trying to bring back the 1980s (unsuccessfully)

6 February 2016 9:00 am

Le Caprice is a monochrome patch of the 1980s behind the Ritz Hotel, in the part of St James’s that…

Meet Feng Shang Princess, the (lousy) Chinese restaurant in a boat

9 January 2016 9:00 am

The Feng Shang Princess is a floating Chinese restaurant on the Regent’s Canal in north London, which flows from Little…

Center Parcs Longleat – a stealth socialist utopia on Lord Bath’s estate

12 December 2015 9:00 am

Center Parcs Longleat is a holiday village in a forest in Wiltshire, on Lord Bath’s estate, so you can never…

Sexy Fish: not so much a restaurant as a museum of London’s rich

28 November 2015 9:00 am

Sexy Fish is a ludicrous restaurant with a ludicrous name in a ludicrous town. It is the latest venture from…

Redecorate the restaurant, but you can’t redecorate the clientele

14 November 2015 9:00 am

Forty-five Jermyn St lives in the left-hand buttock of Fortnum & Mason (F&M), a shop whose acronym is slightly too…

The Old Vic’s Pit Bar has fallen to the hipsters – Penny reviewed

29 October 2015 9:00 am

Penny is an all-day café in the former Pit Bar in the basement of the Old Vic, a famous and…

I went to Pedro’s Tex Mex Cantina to claim my racist sombrero

17 October 2015 9:00 am

Pedro’s Tex-Mex Cantina is a fantastical shack near a ring road in Norwich. It was recently asked to stop handing…

Manchester has marvellous wines, and it’s not finished yet

10 October 2015 9:00 am

It will seem an ungrateful comment after the lunch which I am about to describe, but Manchester has some way…

Smith & Wollensky doesn’t even serve the best steaks in Covent Garden

3 October 2015 8:00 am

Smith & Wollensky is a restaurant from The Shining: a terrifying American steak joint by the Thames, four months old,…

Finally, a foodie restaurant that isn’t pretentious, overpriced or insulting to the intelligence

19 September 2015 8:00 am

I cannot review the Gay Hussar every time the Labour party behaves like a self-harming teenager (‘I don’t want to…

Where comics find their Edinburgh comfort food

5 September 2015 9:00 am

Mum’s, or to use its full title, Mum’s Great Comfort Food, is a restaurant in Edinburgh designed to soothe itinerant…

I Shop Therefore I Am (Dan Kitwood/Getty)

A fake fishing village, and the nastiest thing I’ve eaten as a restaurant critic

8 August 2015 9:00 am

Selfridges is skilled at making things that are not hideous (women) look hideous (women dressed as Bungle from Rainbow or…